Hyaluronic Acid: Benefits, and the Mistake That Cancels Them
Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in skin, where it acts as a water reservoir between cells. Cosmetically it's used for the same reason: it's a humectant capable of holding up to a thousand times its weight in water. But that quality is also its trap, and almost nobody uses it correctly.
The mistake nearly everyone makes
A humectant takes water wherever it finds it. Applied to dry skin in dry air — a Canadian winter with the heating up, for instance — it finds no water in the atmosphere. So it goes looking for it in the deeper layers of your epidermis, and then, with nothing to hold it, that water evaporates.
The result: skin that feels tighter after the serum than before. That's the frustrating experience behind a lot of people concluding “it doesn't work on me”.
The rule, in two parts: apply to skin that's still damp, then seal immediately with a moisturiser. Without both conditions, hyaluronic acid cannot work.
What it does, and what it doesn't
It does: plump the epidermis, smooth the look of dehydration lines, give a bounce that's visible from the first applications, and stop the complexion looking flat by the end of the day.
It doesn't: fill an established wrinkle, replace a nourishing product on skin short of lipids, or work at depth the way an injection does — same name, different molecule, different procedure.
Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Seven ingredients, no fragrance, no oil. Low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate. Suits oily and sensitive skin alike.
Sodium hyaluronate vs hyaluronic acid
On an INCI list you'll see Sodium Hyaluronate more often than Hyaluronic Acid. It's the salt of the same molecule, at lower molecular weight: it penetrates better and keeps longer. Not a budget version — rather the opposite.
As for formulas advertising three, five or ten different molecular weights: the idea is sound — varied sizes act at varied depths — but the real gap against a good simple formula is small. Don't pay double for it.
Where it goes in the routine
- Cleanse — Hydrating Facial Cleanser.
- Pat your face with a towel without drying it fully.
- The serum, within thirty seconds.
- A moisturiser on top, immediately. On dry skin, Extreme Moisture Blend; on oily skin, the Oil Control Hydrator.
In winter, a bedroom humidifier changes more than upgrading your serum. See our piece on dry versus dehydrated skin.
Frequently asked
Can you use it morning and night?
Yes, without issue. It's a humectant, not an irritant — there's no adjustment period to plan for.
What shouldn't it be combined with?
Nothing, in practice. It pairs with niacinamide, acids, retinol and vitamin C. It's one of the easiest actives to slot in.
Is it suitable for oily skin?
Particularly well: it hydrates without adding fats. Plenty of oily skin is dehydrated and shines more for exactly that reason.
The full INCI list for every formula is published on its product page.