How to Choose a Face Serum for Your Skin

A face serum is a concentrated formula built to solve one problem. That's the whole difference from a moisturiser, which hydrates and protects in a general way. Choosing one therefore comes down to a single question: what bothers you when you look in the mirror?

The matching table

What your skin is doingThe active that answers
Tight, dull by the end of the dayHyaluronic acid or glycerin
Uneven tone, post-blemish marks, visible poresNiacinamide
Rough texture, dark spots, no glowGlycolic acid
Loss of firmness, settled fine linesAge-defying serum (squalane, proteins)
Redness, reactivity, discomfortA minimalist soothing formula

If your skin feels tight

This is the most common starting point, and often the only one you need. Dehydrated skin looks dull, shows fine lines that aren't really lines, and tolerates every other active badly — fix this before adding anything else.

Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Seven ingredients, no fragrance, no oil. Apply to damp skin, then seal with a moisturiser.

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Hydration Serum

Glycerin base with a plant-derived hydrating film, slightly more cushioned texture.

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If your tone is uneven

Niacinamide works on pigment transfer, the look of pores, and the strength of the skin barrier — three things at once, without irritating. It's the most versatile serum of the set and the easiest to slot in. Details in our piece on it.

Niacinamide Brightening Serum

Morning, under moisturiser. Suits sensitive skin.

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If your texture is rough

Glycolic acid exfoliates chemically: it loosens the dead cells that dull the complexion and hold pigment. This is background work, not an instant effect. Introduce it slowly, at night, twice a week to start — see also dark spots.

Glycolic Acid Serum

Evenings only. Never the same night as a scrub.

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If you're after firmness

Age Defying Serum

Squalane, glycerin and hydrolysed soy protein. Morning or night.

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If your skin reacts to everything

The right instinct is to remove, not add. A minimalist, fragrance-free formula used alone for two to four weeks gives the barrier time to rebuild.

Soothing Emulsion

Light texture, to be used alone while the skin calms down.

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How many can you layer

Two, three at most, and never all at once. The rule that avoids 90% of irritation:

  • Morning: a hydrating serum and/or niacinamide.
  • Night: the acid, or the age-defying serum — not both the same night.
  • Always thinnest to thickest, with a moisturiser on top to seal.

And above all: one new product at a time, two weeks apart. Otherwise, when something reacts, you'll never know which one to blame.

Frequently asked

Does a serum replace moisturiser?

No. A serum treats, a moisturiser seals. A humectant serum with nothing over it can actually dry skin out in dry air.

How long before you see results?

Hydration: a few days. Tone and texture: eight to twelve weeks. A serum judged in a week is a serum judged too early.

Should you change serum in winter?

Rarely the serum — more often the moisturiser, for something richer. Winter's need is occlusive, not active.

The full INCI list for every formula is published on its product page.

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