Face Exfoliant: Which One to Choose and How Often
Skin renews itself constantly on its own. An exfoliant does one thing: it speeds up the removal of dead cells lingering on the surface, the ones that give a dull complexion, uneven texture and pores that look larger. Well dosed, it's the step that changes a skin's appearance fastest. Badly dosed, it's the most common cause of damaged skin that people mistake for sensitive skin.
The two families
Physical exfoliation
A scrub, a sponge, a brush: dead cells come off through friction. The effect is immediate and visible — skin is smooth by the time you leave the bathroom. It's also the easiest to overdo, because that squeaky-clean feeling invites a repeat.
Natural Konjac Sponge
Considerably gentler — the option to pick if your skin flushes easily.
Chemical exfoliation
An acid dissolves the bond holding dead cells together; they detach without friction. Glycolic acid, the smallest of the alpha hydroxy acids, penetrates well and works at depth on texture and radiance. The effect isn't visible the same evening, but it's steadier and far gentler on the skin barrier than repeated scrubbing.
Glycolic Acid Serum
At night. Richer night-cream version: Glycolic Acid Renewal Night Cream.
How often, by skin type
- Sensitive or reactive: once a week, very gentle physical or low-strength chemical. Never both in the same week at first.
- Normal to combination: once or twice a week. An acid one night, a gentle scrub another day.
- Oily: two to three times a week, favouring chemical exfoliation, which reaches inside the pore where a scrub stays on the surface. See our piece on oily skin.
- Dry: once a week, always followed by a generous moisturiser.
These are ceilings, not targets. If your skin is happy at once a week, there's no reason to go up.
The three costly mistakes
1. Mistaking stinging for effectiveness
Mild warmth when applying an acid is normal. Burning, redness that persists the next day, or skin that stings on contact with water are not. That isn't the product working, it's the barrier giving way — and a damaged barrier takes weeks to rebuild.
2. Stacking exfoliants without noticing
An exfoliating cleanser, an acid toner, a glycolic serum and a weekly scrub: each is reasonable, the combination isn't. Take stock of what you already apply before adding anything.
3. Exfoliating without protecting afterwards
Freshly exfoliated skin is more UV-sensitive. Chemical exfoliation happens at night, and the next day's sunscreen isn't optional — otherwise you undo in the morning what you did the night before. The subject comes up again in our piece on dark spots.
What order to apply
- Cleansing oil, if there's makeup or sunscreen to dissolve.
- Face cleanser, on damp skin.
- The exfoliant — acid or scrub, never both the same night.
- A soothing or hydrating serum, such as the Hydration Serum.
- Moisturiser, to seal.
Frequently asked
Does exfoliating shrink pores?
No. Pore size is genetically determined and doesn't change. But an unclogged pore looks considerably smaller, because it no longer holds the plug of oxidised sebum that made it visible. See blackheads.
Can you exfoliate skin with breakouts?
Yes, but chemically and gently. Scrubbing an inflamed area spreads the inflammation and leaves brown marks that last far longer than the blemish did.
Morning or night?
Night, for both types. Skin isn't exposed to UV in the hours that follow, and cell turnover is more active overnight.
The full ingredient list (INCI) and active concentrations appear on every product page.